School of Dermatology

    Skincare Glossary

    Every skincare and dermatology term you need to know, explained in plain English.

    A

    AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) — Alpha hydroxy acids are a group of water-soluble acids derived from fruits, milk, and sugar cane. The most common AHAs i…
    Antioxidant — Antioxidants are molecules that protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals — unstable atoms generated by UV ra…
    Astringent — An astringent is a topical product or ingredient that causes the contraction of skin cells and tissues, temporarily tigh…
    Atopic Dermatitis — Atopic dermatitis is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition and the most common form of eczema. It causes dry, itchy, re…

    B

    Barrier Function — The skin's barrier function refers to the protective role of the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. …
    BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) — Beta hydroxy acid refers primarily to salicylic acid, an oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates into pores to dissolve ex…
    Broad Spectrum — Broad spectrum is a sunscreen classification indicating that a product protects against both UVA and UVB rays. UVB rays …

    C

    Ceramides — Ceramides are a family of waxy lipid molecules that occur naturally in the skin and make up about 50% of the lipids in t…
    Chemical Exfoliant — A chemical exfoliant is a skincare product that uses acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, pro…
    Collagen — Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, providing structural support to the skin, bones, tendons, and l…
    Comedogenic — Comedogenic describes an ingredient or product that has a tendency to clog pores and contribute to the formation of come…
    Comedone — A comedone is a basic acne lesion formed when a hair follicle becomes clogged with dead skin cells, sebum, and sometimes…
    Contact Dermatitis — Contact dermatitis is a localized skin inflammation that occurs when the skin comes into direct contact with a substance…
    Cystic Acne — Cystic acne is the most severe form of acne, characterized by large, deep, painful, inflamed breakouts that form beneath…

    D

    Dermatitis — Dermatitis is a general term for skin inflammation, characterized by redness, swelling, itching, and sometimes blisterin…
    Dermis — The dermis is the thick middle layer of the skin, located between the epidermis (outer layer) and the hypodermis (subcut…
    Desquamation — Desquamation is the natural, ongoing process by which the outermost layer of dead skin cells (corneocytes) sheds from th…
    Double Cleansing — Double cleansing is a two-step face washing method that originated in Korean and Japanese skincare routines. The first s…

    E

    Elastin — Elastin is a highly elastic protein found in the dermis that allows the skin to stretch and snap back to its original sh…
    Emollient — An emollient is a type of moisturizing ingredient or product that works by filling in the gaps between skin cells with l…
    Emulsifier — An emulsifier is an ingredient that allows two normally immiscible substances — typically oil and water — to mix togethe…
    Enzymes — In skincare, enzymes are biological proteins used as gentle exfoliating agents. They work by breaking down the keratin p…
    Epidermis — The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and serves as the body's primary physical barrier against the environme…
    Exfoliation — Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin to reveal fresher, smoother skin ben…

    F

    Fibroblast — Fibroblasts are the primary cells in the dermis responsible for producing collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans (like hy…
    Fitzpatrick Scale — The Fitzpatrick Scale is a numerical classification system developed by dermatologist Thomas Fitzpatrick in 1975 that ca…
    Free Radicals — Free radicals are unstable, reactive molecules with unpaired electrons that damage cells by stealing electrons from othe…

    G

    Glycerin — Glycerin (also called glycerol) is one of the most effective and widely used humectant ingredients in skincare. It is a …
    Glycolic Acid — Glycolic acid is the smallest and most widely researched alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugar cane. Its small mo…

    H

    Humectant — A humectant is a type of moisturizing ingredient that attracts and binds water molecules from the environment and from d…
    Hyaluronic Acid — Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan found throughout the body's connective tissues, with the…
    Hyperpigmentation — Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition where patches of skin become darker than the surrounding areas due to exces…
    Hypodermis — The hypodermis, also called the subcutaneous layer or subcutis, is the deepest layer of the skin lying below the dermis.…

    I

    Inflammation — Inflammation is the immune system's response to injury, infection, or irritation, characterized by redness, swelling, he…
    Irritant — An irritant is any substance that causes a non-allergic inflammatory reaction when it comes into contact with the skin. …

    J

    Jojoba Oil — Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis), native to the sout…

    K

    Keratin — Keratin is a tough, fibrous structural protein that is the primary component of the outermost layer of skin (stratum cor…
    Keratinocyte — Keratinocytes are the predominant cell type in the epidermis, making up approximately 90% of epidermal cells. They are p…

    L

    Lactic Acid — Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from milk that serves as a gentle chemical exfoliant. It has a larger…
    LED (Light Emitting Diode) — In skincare, LED refers to light emitting diode technology used to deliver specific wavelengths of light to the skin. Di…
    Lipid Barrier — The lipid barrier (also called the lipid matrix or lipid bilayer) is the intercellular 'mortar' between the corneocytes …

    M

    Melanin — Melanin is the natural pigment produced by melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis that gives skin, hair, and ey…
    Melanocyte — Melanocytes are specialized cells located in the basal layer of the epidermis that produce melanin, the pigment responsi…
    Microbiome — The skin microbiome refers to the vast community of microorganisms — including bacteria, fungi, viruses, and mites — tha…
    Milia — Milia are small, white or yellowish, dome-shaped bumps that appear on the skin when keratin (a protein) becomes trapped …
    Moisturizer — A moisturizer is a skincare product designed to hydrate the skin and prevent water loss by combining three types of mois…

    N

    Niacinamide — Niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide) is a form of vitamin B3 that has become one of the most versatile and popular a…
    Non-Comedogenic — Non-comedogenic is a term used to describe skincare and cosmetic products that are formulated to be less likely to clog …

    O

    Occlusives — Occlusives are a category of moisturizing ingredients that work by forming a physical barrier on the skin's surface to p…
    Oxidative Stress — Oxidative stress occurs when there is an imbalance between the production of free radicals (reactive oxygen species) and…

    P

    Peptides — Peptides are short chains of amino acids (typically 2-50 amino acids long) that serve as building blocks for proteins li…
    pH Balance — pH (potential of hydrogen) is a measure of acidity or alkalinity on a scale of 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Healthy sk…
    Photobiomodulation — Photobiomodulation is the use of specific wavelengths of light — typically red and near-infrared — to stimulate cellular…
    PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema) — Post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) refers to the flat, pink to red or purple marks left on the skin after an inflammatory …
    PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation) — Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a type of hyperpigmentation that occurs as the skin heals from inflammation…
    Pore — Pores are the tiny openings on the skin's surface through which hair follicles reach the surface and through which sebum…
    Propolis — Propolis is a natural, resinous substance produced by honeybees from tree buds, sap flows, and other botanical sources. …

    R

    Red Light Therapy — Red light therapy uses wavelengths between 620-700 nanometers to penetrate the skin and stimulate mitochondrial energy p…
    Retinoid — Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds derived from vitamin A that are widely considered the gold standard in anti-…
    Retinol — Retinol is the most popular and widely available over-the-counter form of vitamin A (retinoid) used in skincare. It is a…
    Rosacea — Rosacea is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition that primarily affects the central face — cheeks, nose, chin, and fore…

    S

    Salicylic Acid — Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark that is one of the most effective and widely used i…
    Sebaceous Gland — Sebaceous glands are small, oil-producing glands attached to hair follicles throughout the body (except on the palms and…
    Sebum — Sebum is the waxy, oily substance produced by sebaceous glands to lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair. It is comp…
    Sensitized Skin — Sensitized skin is a condition where the skin has become temporarily reactive, irritated, and easily aggravated due to e…
    Skin Cycling — Skin cycling is a skincare method popularized by dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe that involves rotating active ingredient…
    SPF — SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, a numerical rating that indicates how much longer a sunscreen allows you to stay i…
    Stratum Corneum — The stratum corneum is the outermost sublayer of the epidermis and the body's first physical barrier against the externa…
    Sunscreen — Sunscreen is a topical product that protects the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which caus…

    T

    Toner — A toner is a liquid skincare product applied after cleansing and before serums and moisturizers. Historically, toners we…
    Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) — Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is the process by which water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporat…
    Tretinoin — Tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) is the most potent and well-researched prescription retinoid, available under brand …

    U

    Urea — Urea is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin as part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) — the collecti…
    UVA — UVA (Ultraviolet A) rays are the longest wavelength of ultraviolet radiation (320-400 nm) emitted by the sun. They accou…
    UVB — UVB (Ultraviolet B) rays are medium-wavelength ultraviolet radiation (280-320 nm) that primarily affects the epidermis, …

    V

    Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) — Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is one of the most researched and effective antioxidant ingredients in skincare. It neutrali…
    Vitamin E (Tocopherol) — Vitamin E (tocopherol) is a fat-soluble antioxidant that occurs naturally in the skin's sebum and plays a critical role …

    W

    Whiteheads — Whiteheads (closed comedones) are a type of non-inflammatory acne that appears as small, flesh-colored or white bumps on…
    Witch Hazel — Witch hazel is a plant-derived ingredient extracted from the bark and leaves of the Hamamelis virginiana shrub, native t…

    X

    Xeroderma — Xeroderma is the medical term for abnormally dry skin, characterized by roughness, tightness, flaking, scaling, cracking…

    Z

    Zinc (topical) — Topical zinc refers to various zinc compounds used in skincare for their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wound-healing…
    Zinc Oxide — Zinc oxide is a mineral (inorganic) sunscreen ingredient that provides broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UV…

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